NZ Alpine Climbing Regions

Notes by Don French, with editing by Murray Scott.

New Zealand is famous for its Alpine regions. Rock generally is not recommended to climb on in most alpine areas, with a few exceptions. New Zealanders have become masters of Ice and Snow climbing techniques. A lot of our mountains have long snow aretes. The numerous glaciers are very active, with crevasses sometimes being a real problem.

Because of the weather, New Zealand climbers tend to base themselves from an alpine hut where they can wait out the bad weather in simple comfort. A good book can be essential climbing gear. When the summit day arrives, an early start is mandatory, for the sun soon softens the snow. Nights out are very rarely planned, for the climber does not trust the weather to remain settled for long.

New Zealand climbers will always use ropes when traveling across glaciers, but often remove them after the last crevasse is crossed, and climb onto the summit unroped. This is to enable the party to move fast over the snow and ice which is considered to be easy ground. Slip is the greatest danger. Surprisingly few climbers are injured or killed climbing like this. Climbers consider the risks of being caught out in poor snow conditions or bad weather, or fatigue to be greater than that of falling.

Some of the climbs can be very big, like the Caroline Face of Mt Cook which is a 2,500m (vertical) climb from the closest hut. Mt Cook is a 1,550 m climb from Plateau hut, and is usually completed in a 15 to 18 hour return trip from this hut.

Regions

This is only a brief list of areas considered worth visiting. For a more comprehensive list see chapter 13 of NZ Mountain Safety Manual 20 - Mountaincraft.

Map by Don French

Hikurangi (1752 m)

Not so much as an alpine region, but it is the first mountain in the world to see the new day.

Mt Taranaki (Mt Egmont) (2518 m)

A conical shaped volcano which makes a good days outing. Do not be deceived by this mountain, it has the highest fatality rate of any mountain in NZ.

Ruapehu (2797 m)

This mountain and its two volcano neighbours are easy climbs, but do offer great views of the North Island. Ruapehu has a warm lake as its crater, which is slowly re-filling after the October 1995 eruption. Mt Ngauruhoe is also still active. Mt Tongariro is extinct.

Kaikoura Ranges

The seaward range of this pair is very accessible from the main road. A very strong climber can climb from sea level to the high point (Manakau 2610 m) in a day. The Inland range has the giant mountain of Tapuaenuku (2885 m). These ranges are more popular during winter.

Nelson Lakes

A National Park with a number of fun peaks rising above beautiful beech forest.

Arthurs Pass

Access from Christchurch is easy, either by road or rail. Mt Rolleston (2271 m) is a good climb from the village, while Mt Murchison (2400 m) requires a day or two of walking before it can be ascended.

Arrowsmiths

Because this range is further east than most of our South Island mountains, it tends to have slightly better weather. The rock is poor, but it does offer some excellent extreme ice climbs in winter. The range is also very accessible with only short walks required.

Aoraki/ Mt Cook

This region is the centre of New Zealanders alpine activities. The principal objectives for most climbers is Mt Cook (3756 m - 10 m was lost after a large rock avalanche in Dec 1991). Mt Tasman (3500 m), Mt Sefton (3159 m), Mt Hicks (3218 m), Mt Malte Brun (3159 m), and Mt Elie de Beaumont (3111 m) are other popular objectives. Most of the climbs are on ice with the best rock being found on Malte Brun and Hicks. Ski-equipped airplanes are often used to gain quick acess to several high huts.

Mt Aspiring

This National Park main attraction is Mt Aspiring (3125 m). This mountain is very attractive and is sometimes referred as the "Matterhorn of the South".

Mt Earnslaw (2819 m)

Accessed from the tourist resort of Queenstown. This is at the southern end of the Mt Aspiring National Park and is not a difficult climb, but has a pleasant short walk in up the Rees valley.

Darrans

The Yosemite of New Zealand. Unfortunately there is a great deal of rain which turns the regions granite walls into waterfalls. The best weather is usually found in March, but in mid winter a number of very difficult ice routes can be climbed. Tutoko (2746 m) is the principal mountaineering objective, but Sabre (2167 m) is a popular rock peak not to be missed.

Other Areas

There are countless areas missed in this brief summary. Of particular note would be:

• Hopkins Valley - located just south of Mt Cook National Park is a pleasant valley with a number of good peaks.
• Rangitata - This river's headwaters offer many excellent peaks.
• Fiordland National Park - If one is wanting to disappear for weeks on end, and to possibly climb a virgin summit, the Fiordland National Park has much scope. A long day and a boat journey will enable you to climb the rarely climbed and famous Mitre Peak at Milford Sound.
• Rakaia River - Other peaks that may interest include Mt Evans and Mt Whitcombe at the head of the Rakaia river.
• Mt Hooker - (South Westland) has a long walk to its base which may require up to a week for a serious attempt.
• Mt Brewster - Is worth a visit, for it has the advantage in that it can be climbed within an overnight trip from the Haast Pass highway.

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Page created by Tom Bennion, Alastair Smith, and Murray Scott. Last modified 26 June 1996.