The NZAC is keen to help Club Members achieve their climbing objectives overseas. The Club does not intend to interfere in the way you run your trip; rather there may be areas where the Club's influence or its access to people or information can assist.
That's for you to decide but the NZAC may be able to provide contact addresses for climbers (in NZ and overseas) who have been there before, or have access to published information. This could include Club Members or other contacts in the countries you are visiting. The Club libraries contain sets of overseas climbing journals which are available for reference.
Some governments and authorities, particularly in Asia - eg Nepal - require that your credentials are verified. An endorsement on the Club's letterhead can open doors for you. How do you get an endorsement? Just write to the Convener, Overseas Climbing Sub-Committee (NZAC, PO Box 3040, Wellington) giving brief details of exactly what you want. An endorsement can usually be given promptly. What you will get is a suitable endorsement. The Club will not guarantee that you'll "perform" or undertake to rescue you from jail for illegal activities.
These are similar, are given on the Club's letterhead and read something like:
"We want to introduce you to ............. and .............who are members of the Club
/experienced climbers. Please give them as much help as you can."
Such letters have been provided routinely in Spanish for climbers and trampers visiting South America. They could be handy when foreign Customs start giving you the once over.
The NZAC is not in the business of hiring or maintaining great stashes of gear. However from time to time it does own or have access (either in NZ or overseas) to high altitude climbing or medical equipment which is available for use. The Club may also be able to put you in contact with others who have specialised gear or with NZ climbers going to the same region before or after you. You may be able to share gear and thus reduce costs.
The Club has negotiated these through its membership of the UIAA. It means that NZAC members can get members' rates at huts overseas. Clubs which have agreed to reciprocal rights are:
- Austrian Alpine Club.
- German Alpine Club.
- Italian Alpine Club.
- Alpine Club of Canada.
- Scottish Mountaineering Club.
- Climbers Club (UK).
- Fell and Rock Climbing Club (UK).
The NZAC is always trying to negotiate further reciprocal arrangements. Take your NZAC card when going climbing overseas,
particularly in Europe and North America. Other clubs may still agree to give you members' rates even if there are no formal
reciprocal rights.
If you are going on an overseas trip with defined and significant mountaineering objectives the Club may be able to make a cash grant to help meet your expenses. Assistance is also given for overseas rock climbing, but because of the smaller financial commitment for such trips they would be less likely to qualify. Trekking with climbs of minor peaks and informal trips with no defined objectives do not usually qualify for support. Financial assistance is available only to Club Members.
Many factors determine whether you get any money, not the least of which is the state of the Overseas Climbing Fund which is
financed from Members' donations and not from Members' core subscriptions. NZAC expeditions, particularly those organised
by Sections, have in the past been supported more substantially. Some preference is given to those on their first trip (ahead of
hardened expeditionists) and to expeditions with extraordinary expenses such as peak fees and porters.
Applying for a Grant.
Write to the Convener, Overseas Climbing Sub-Committee, PO Box 3040, Wellington giving full details of the overseas climbing
expedition/trip including:
- Names and biodata (including climbing experience) of the leader and other climbers.
- Outline of the climbing (and any other) objectives.
- Summary of budget (expenses and sources of funds).
- Reasons why assistance is sought.
Further information may be requested before an application can be processed. The Club Committee considers applications in May
and October each year. An application must be received by 30 April or 30 September to ensure that it is considered at the meeting the next month.
Conditions of Grants.
These vary but will always include the following:
- Agreement to supply an article with photographs for the next Alpine Journal.
- Agreement to provide a short summary for the New Zealand Climber with up-to-date information on local conditions and problems.
- Agreement to give a lecture to your local Section and, on an expense reimbursement basis, to any other Sections of the Club which request a talk.
A grant may be tied to a particular expense such as purchase of equipment or payment of a peak fee. Any equipment purchased
through a grant or borrowed is the property of the Club and to be returned. Consideration may be given in special cases to a
loan with repayment from surplus expedition funds or from Members.
Even if the Club cannot help with funding it may be able to give useful support for your application for funding from government and private organisations. The Mount Everest Foundation in England welcomes applications from NZ climbing expeditions and has made grants to a number of these over the last few years.
Over the last few years there have been a number of exchanges with overseas climbing clubs including the French Alpine Club and
the Seattle Mountaineers. Participating in an exchange is a great way to further your climbing skills and develop friendships with overseas climbers. Participants in an exchange pay their own expenses except those for which the overseas organisation
takes responsibility. The New Zealand Climber lists details of these exchanges.
NZAC Support for Overseas Climbing
