CLIMBERS GUIDE TO TARANAKI
logoA Climbers Guide to Taranaki.

By Ross Eden, John Edge, and Chris Prudden, (1996)

This guidebook encompasses the second edition of the rockclimbing routes on Mount Taranaki / Egmont, but it is also the first comprehensive description of alpine climbing routes from a year-round perspective. The title is particularly relevant to the content. For a skilled climber further detail would prove superfluous. However, it is not a 'blow-by-blow' description for a pure novice. Mount Taranaki / Egmont is an excellent alpine experience at any time of the year. The route descriptions represent well-known and interesting climbs as day events, in particular to assist day or weekend visitors from outside the Taranaki Province. Ease of access to the alpine slopes of Mount Taranaki / Egmont has no doubt been a major factor in great numbers of novice climbers attaining the summit during summer months, usually by the North Ridge route. There has been a great deal of misinformation propagated within New Zealand (and possibly overseas) concerning the lonely peak of Taranaki / Egmont. It is not a dangerous mountain, but one worthy of the same respect given to any peak of similar stature. Specific route descriptions are given for the contrasts of summer and winter. Spring conditions generally represent soft snow with some rock showing through mainly on the ridges and cliff faces. Autumn will mean rock with some snow and ice, particularly near the summit and on the southern faces. Taranaki / Egmont is a mountain of unusual and great contrasts. Changes in weather or snow surface conditions can occur hourly. The alpine slopes offer worthy callenges for the most skilled climber. For all those who choose to climb, whether novice or experienced mountaineer, this is an environment that can turn from the very amiable to the very testing within a short space of time and distance.

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Page created by Murray Scott. Last modified 26 June 1996.