logo Rockclimbing in NZ

Some sections based on notes by Don French, with editing by Murray Scott

Introduction

In recent years the NZAC has put considerable effort into the development of rockclimbing in New Zealand, largely through the efforts of the Rockclimbing Sub-Committee (Convenor, PO Box 3040 Wellington). Areas of activity have included:

The NZAC Cragwatch Scheme

The Cragwatch scheme has been established to safeguard access to crags. A contact person or "cragwatcher" liaises directly with the landowner and communicates with the wider climbing community. This liaison is intended to provide constructive dialogue, inform climbers on current access conditions and restrictions and resolve problems when and where they arise.

International Sportclimbing

The NZAC also assists NZ climbers wishing to participate in the Oceania and World Cup sportclimbing competitions. Typically this has been through providing the required licensing, because of NZAC affiliation to the UIAA. Financial support for New Zealand climbers participating at overseas events may also be possible. Through specialist courses, the NZAC can train judges, route setters and competition officials.

A large number of New Zealand sport-climbs have bolts on them without hangers. This problem can be overcome by sliding the nut down the stem of its wire and placing it over the bolthead, before sliding the nut back into place, thus securing the nuts wire to the bolt. This is a very common technique here. The technique of using 'loose hangers' is a very uncertain one in NZ because of varying bolt head diameters.

Grading

Rockclimbing first gained significant popularity in New Zealand in the late 70s. New Zealand uses the open ended Ewbank (Australian) grading system. This is an open ended system based on technical difficulty with grades ranging from 9 (easy), to 31(extremely difficult). NZ Grade 20 is roughly the equivalent to YDS 5.10b/c or UK 5c.

New Zealand Rock Types

Ignimbrite.
A volcanic rock generally found in the central North Island. This rock has numerous pockets which often give 'thank god' holds. The frequency of the pockets varies from crag to crag, or even from area to area. Ignimbrite has various hardness, sometimes varying over the course of a climb. Check any protection placements very carefully. Best Crags are Whanganui Bay or Wharepapa South.
Volcanic - Others.
These have a whole range of possibilities, ranging from the thinly cracked Mt Eden Quarry to the more pocketed Castle Rock. The rock is generally very solid.
Limestone (calcite).
New Zealand's limestone is generally very young making the rock soft. Paynes Ford is the noticeable exception to this rule. The soft rock gives a very different nature to the climbing, but these routes are often very well protected with stout bolts. Nuts and Friends should be avoided on this type of limestone. The Castle Hill Basin is the most popular softer limestone crag.
Greywacke (New Zealand sandstone).
This is the major rock type in New Zealand. This rock is very tough, but usually extremely fractured. This makes it very good for building roads, but not so good for climbing on. The mountain regions are principally of this type of rock. The red shades of greywacke often give better climbing conditions.
Granite.
The Darran region,is the best known area for this rock. Charlston's rock is Gneiss, a subset of the Granite family. Guide: The Darrans Guide.

Rockclimbing Areas

Some of the most popular rockclimbing areas in New Zealand are described below. Access to many of these crags depends on the goodwill of the landowner. It is vital that all courtesies are observed if continued access is to be ensured.

map of rockclimbing areas

map by Don French

North Island

Mt Eden Quarry
In Auckland. This very accessible basalt crag offers predominantly difficult routes (23+). Guide: Auckland Climbs.

Wharepapa South
South Waikato. There are a number of ignimbrite crags in this region, situated on farmland. Climbing in all grades, mostly bolt-protected face /pocket routes. Guide: Central North Island Rock.

Piarere
East of Cambridge, Waikato. An older ignimbrite crag, which has lost out in popularity to Wharepapa. This extensive cliff offers crack climbing up to grade 22, is very accessible and is located near tea rooms. It faces north and is a good winter choice. Guide: Central North Island Rock.

Whanganui Bay
In the Western Bays of Lake Taupo. This ignimbrite crag is the North Island s premier crag. It is on private (Maori) land and there have been access problems in the past. A full range of short, steep climbs (12 - 29) using both pockets and cracks. Guide: Whanganui Rock .

Mt Taranaki
A number of columnar andesite crags, up to 80m. Principally moderate (16-20) crack and corner climbing. The crags are located above the bush line and are generally climbed from Tahurangi Lodge. A summer crag - snowed over in winter. Guide:Taranaki Rock

Baring Head
Past Wainuiomata, at the entrance to Wellington Harbour. A popular bouldering spot.

South Island

Paynes Ford
An overhanging limestone crag near Takaka. Currently very popular, with a large number of difficult, high quality one pitch bolted routes (16 - 29). Probably the best concentration of sport climbing routes in NZ. Photocopied guide sheets available. Guide: Canterbury Rock.

Charleston
A 40m gneiss seacliff on the West Coast, south of Westport. The climbs are traditionally protected and relatively easy (12-21). Guide: Canterbury Rock.

Castle Hill
Near Arthur's Pass, Canterbury. A large area of limestone boulders up to 20m. This area is very popular with Christchurch climbers, as the weather is often good, the setting attractive and the climbing (16 - 31) technically interesting. Most routes are bolt protected slab or pocket climbing. Guide: Canterbury Rock.

Port Hills
Near Christchurch. The hills above Lyttelton contain a number of volcanic crags with climbs of all levels of difficulty, with natural and bolt protection. The most popular crags are probably Castle Rock, Rapaki Rock and Lyttelton Rock. Guide:Canterbury Rock.

Hanging Rock
Near Fairlie, South Canterbury. Recently developed limestone crags which offer an excellent escape from Mt Cook in bad weather. Mostly bolt protected face /pocket routes (19-29). In the same area, Mount Horrible and Spur Rd, two basalt crags near Timaru offer some excellent short crack climbs (16-23). Guide:Canterbury Rock.

Cloudy Peak
Up the Rangitata River, near Erewhon Station, South Canterbury. Not a crag, but a rock mountain peak which has a number of good but serious climbs on greywacke. This peak has better weather than most alpine peaks because it is located off the Main Divide. Requires a half day walk to get to its base. Guide:Canterbury Rock.

Duntroon
North Otago, south of Oamaru. Soft limestone with short overhanging routes and bouldering. Elephant Rocks and Island Valley are the most popular areas. No published guide (in 1993).

Wanaka
These small crags have been developed in the last five years, and there are now 200 or so routes mostly on schist, using both bolts and natural protection. Principally face climbing. Photocopied guide available.

Long Beach
Located on a beach to the north of Dunedin. Has a number of excellent basaltic climbs (16-24), both bolt and naturally protected. Guide: Southern Rock.

Darrans
Near Milford Sound, Fiordland. Although a mountain region, the diorite of the Darran mountains offers the best multipitch rockclimbing routes in NZ. Routes tend to be technically difficult, both crack /corner and face /slab climbing. Generally more serious than other rockclimbing areas in NZ with the possible exception of Cloudy Peak. Guide: The Darrans Guide.

Climbing Walls

The following list of walls is not exhaustive - the choice is based on well known, or NZAC funded walls. Listing does not guarantee access - some are free, some private. Other walls exist in schools, recreation centres etc. 
Location               Type             NZAC        Address
                                                 Discount

Auckland      Indoor     Yes      Clive Green, Harris Road, East Tamaki
                         No       Rocknazium, 610 Dominion Rd	  

Palmerston    Indoor              Massey University Gymnasium
North

Turangi       Outdoor &  No       Sir Edmund Hillary Outdoor Pursuits Centre
              Indoor

Wellington    Indoor     Yes      Evolution Gym, Evans Bay Parade, Evans Bay
              Outdoor    Free     Freyberg Swimming Pool, Oriental Parade

Nelson        Indoor     No       Sheerface, 10-Pin bowling centre, 34 Vanguard St

Christchurch  Indoor     Yes      YMCA, Hereford St
              Indoor              Canterbury University

Oamaru        Indoor     No       Waitaki Recreation Centre, Orwell St

Dunedin       Outdoor             Regent Theatre
              Indoor              Smithies Gym, Otago University
              Indoor              World Fitness Centre, 266 Hanover St

Invercargill  Indoor     Yes      YMCA
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Page created by Tom Bennion, Alastair Smith, and Murray Scott. Last modified 26 June 1996.